Yes! Our closed Facebook page is where people post the need for vacation fosters. If for some reason we don't find one, we can board at our vet. Please keep in mind though, major holidays can be problematic. We cannot get boarding at our vet (they book out months in advance) and many vacation fosters will also be unavailable during major holidays.
Closed Foster Page:
Absolutely! We need/want to have a variety of approved vacation fosters. You can fill out our standard foster app and make a note you just want to vacation foster.
Foster App: https://www.shelterluv.com/form/volunteer/DHDN/2101-foster-~-application-
Our Supply Coordinator and supplies are in Logan Square.
Supplies are placed on the porch based on the size of the dog.
We provide the address, and it makes for an easy porch pick up prior to getting your foster.
The feeding instructions are on the bag and are based on weight. We most often use:
Diamond Naturals ~ Lamb
Weight Recommended Daily Feeding (cups)
3lbs 1/3
5lbs 1/2
10lbs 3/4
20lbs 1 1/2
30lbs 2
40lbs 2 1/2
60lbs 3 1/3
80lbs 4 1/4
100lbs 4 3/4
NOTHING!!! ABSOLUTELY NOTHING!!! DECOMPRESSION MATTERS!
You take it slow (please refer to the Two Week Shutdown document) and you get to know each other.
The first 2 weeks, you guys stay boring as can be. Low key, no confusion, no pressure or expectations.
You work on routine. Crating, making sure they know where they need to go potty and you just figure out each other and learn about each other.
We understand a new dog is exciting, and we want you to be excited. But it’s far less exciting when things go haywire immediately. Do not assume you know how this dog will react in any situation. You don’t know. Until we’ve put in the time, built a bond and mutual respect, we do not know what this dog will do. In any situation. Interact safely, respect boundaries, and learn about each other, in a calm and safe environment
No!!! For the love of god...stop obsessing about baths! This dog doesn't know you. You don't know this dog. Do you want to find out a dog is terrified of water after you got bit trying to put it in the bathtub? Doing this crap isn't helpful at all. It can hinder the trust and relationship the dog needs to build with you. Your dog doesn't need a bath immediately. Stay safe. End of story.
Crating is NOT mean!!!
Crating is for safety, decompression, and sometimes, when everyone just needs a mental break (humans included).
We do not want dogs sitting in crates nonstop, but we do want crates to be utilized for regular routine purposes, and to make sure everyone has some forced downtime.
We recommend using the crate more in the beginning than you’d normally want. This isn’t forever, it’s just to get through the beginning transition. When humans get too stressed, it doesn’t often go well. Give yourself, your family, and animal’s breaks. Humans need decompression too.
No. There's no way we can ensure that. We wish we could.
Some dogs have leash tests online you can view, some do not. Some dogs will be great with other dogs, some will not. And just because a dog likes one dog, does not mean it will like all dogs.
Families that have existing dogs are strongly urged to do slow introductions. We personally, practice a full 2 week shutdown. A new dog comes in and it has its own space, away from the chaos of the home. The new dog is not introduced to our dogs immediately. This dog is kept separate to focus on decompression and creating trust and a bond with us (the humans). We are the main caregivers for this dog. We feed them, take them potty, and we leave them alone.
Yes, we wrote that. We do not really pay them much attention at all. We exist together, until we slowly get more comfortable with each other. Dogs may follow us around, and some may choose to avoid us completely in the beginning. That’s absolutely okay! We do not approach them to try to get them to cuddle or be affectionate. They do not need this immediately.
They need space, consistency, decompression, and they need to learn who they can trust. It’s very difficult to trust a new person that is constantly pushing you past your comfort level. Most humans don’t even realize they’re doing it. Dogs do not need our pity and cuddles. They need us to save their lives. Cuddles can come later. We want those cuddles to come later, by avoiding any immediate human error.
We do understand that not all families want to keep dogs separated. It’s not supposed to be forever. The separation is to allow everyone in the home to get used to the smells and sounds of new dogs, and to bring the energy and anxiety down. Before the meets happen.
Moving to a new place with complete strangers is scary and confusing enough. Trying to add all the extra factors too soon, increases the likelihood a dog may make a mistake. Humans and animals can, and do, make poor decisions when overwhelmed.
If two dogs seem like a good match, a strict shutdown isn’t always needed. We do a strict shutdown because it’s what works in our homes. But we would still recommend dogs have time to separate and chill out in the beginning.
Do you go on a first date, move in with that person the same day, and spend 24 hours a day together? No, you don’t. It’s too much, too soon.
And if for some reason the dogs are just not a match, this does not mean you cannot safely still foster. You can 'crate and rotate.' More details on that below.
Crate and rotate means periodic crating throughout the day for dogs who cannot be let loose together. Crate and rotate may also include the use of baby gates to separate parts of the house.
The reason for a crate and rotate lifestyle is fairly simple. Dogs reside in the house that do not get along. While that part is simple, the social dynamics that require a crate and rotate life are not.
Sometimes we live this way because some dogs are intact (not spayed or neutered) and we are preventing puppies. While this may be shocking to some in the United States where spaying and neutering is the norm, there are other countries (without pet overpopulation problems) where altering a dog physically is not the norm. Instead, owners simply keep their female dogs separated from other dogs when they are in heat.
Another dynamic that creates a crate and rotate life are dogs who react aggressively to one another.
One solution might be training, but realistically this will not always solve things. Sometimes dogs of the same sex will not get along. Other times, personalities will mix like oil and water, especially younger dogs living with older dogs. Exuberance is not always a welcomed addition to an older dog’s life and they will respond unfavorably.
Fear is another factor. Dogs who are fearful of other dogs, resource guard, or are in general, stressed by the presence of other dogs can thrive when a crate and rotate lifestyle is implemented. Owners who rescue or foster dogs will often maintain a crate and rotate lifestyle for the dogs in their home to prevent stress, aggressive altercations, and the spread of disease. This also reduces the likelihood of stress for the resident dogs.
The number one reason for crate and rotate lifestyle is safety!
But what about training? Can’t training fix these problems? Why don’t you MAKE the dogs get along?
The answer to these common questions is that it's unrealistic in many cases. The traditional training for this problem is barbaric, consisting of significant use of physical punishment and the use of many tools that cause pain. And unfortunately, many cases still lead to injuries due to fights. It’s just not worth the damage to the relationship between you and your dogs and the likely injuries that will inevitably happen when your guard is down.
Remember that dogs, like humans, have complicated social dynamics and preferences. It is not realistic to assume you will/should get along with every dog any more than you should like and be friendly with everyone. The whole point of social bonds is based on feelings positively or negatively towards individuals and your dog has those too.
Many owners are upset when dogs who previously got along, now fight. Implementation of a crate and rotate lifestyle allows the dogs to stay in the household safely while owners work with a trainer to try and get them comfortable with each other again. But just like fights with humans, they don’t always come back together. So this lifestyle may be all that is possible.
Isn’t crate and rotate life cruel?
When done with consideration for all dogs involved, it can be very kind. Reducing the presence of the other dogs in the house reduces stress and improves wellbeing. Furthermore, when a dog is in their crate, it should have stimulation such as food toys, chews and other things to interact with. Mine primarily sleep during their crate turns. Crate time should not be in excess. My own dogs are not in a crate for more than 4-6 hours except for overnight. We use baby gates to further free up parts of the house. So generally one dog is only crated for a short stretch. Some owners well also employ the use of a yard or outside kennel to provide additional holding locations for dogs so that they are not bored or isolated for long periods of time. In some cases, groups of dogs may rotate. My dogs rotate in groups. This means they are rarely alone or bored.
Why not just give up the dog who isn’t getting along?
It is likely that the owner loves their dog, so giving it up is hard. If the reason for the problem is aggression, finding a home for a dog without other dogs, because of a history of aggression is very hard. Shelters in the United States are overflowing with dogs given up for these exact reasons. There are not enough interested homes at any given time for dogs with no problems, let alone dogs who are selective in who they can live with. Therefore trying to keep the dog in the home is many times the best option as long as good welfare and a healthy wellbeing can be maintained.
There is no shame in running a crate and rotate home. This lifestyle isn’t the easiest but it can be the best decision when dogs are not getting along. While it doesn’t always have to be permanent, trying to put a deadline on cohabitation can lead to dangerous failure that there is no coming back from. If your primitive dogs are not getting along, talk to a trainer with experience in a crate and rotate management lifestyle about how such an arrangement can be set up for your dog.
Source: Couch Wolves https://www.couchwolves.com/
We do! Whether your foster needs standard vetting or more extensive medical care, we cover the costs of medical until they're adopted.
This depends!
Standard vetting that MUST be done before we can do an adoption includes:
Occasionally we pull a dog from animal control that has all these things completed, and we wouldn't need to do more (this is rare).
And sometimes they need all the basics and more because they're a known medical case, or they became an unplanned medical case.
We do! You do not have to do anything to schedule. We will communicate with you about your schedule, where your dog will be vetted and what your dog will have done.
*Please note, fosters should NOT call our veterinary partners unless we've advised you can. Our veterinarians see way too many of our dogs to get called all day by fosters who want to ask questions. Fosters need to reach out to their DHD pointperson in regards to veterinary questions.*
PAWS Medical Center & Lurie Clinic ~ We use PAWS for standard vetting
3516 W. 26th Street
Chicago, IL 60623
Naperville Animal Hospital ~ We use Naperville for standard & non-standard vetting
1023 E. Ogden Ave.
Naperville, IL 60563
PAWS Chicago ~ Surgery Hours
Drop of is anytime between 6:45am - 7:45am
Pick up is 3pm the same day
Naperville Animal Hospital ~ Surgery Hours
Drop off is anytime between 7am and 8am
Pick up for males: Same day. Usually between 3pm - 6:30pm
Pick up for females: Next day. Anytime between 9am - 6:30pm (weekday hours only)
For the first few days or so, after arriving at a new home, a dog may not eat. Be patient, they need time to adjust to their new environment. Lack of appetite can have multiple causes, such as environmental change, stress, depression, illness, food allergy or a change in food.
No. Welcome to rescue, where the dogs and humans all have diarrhea. There are so many reasons your dog can have diarrhea.
And more! In the beginning, you need to give them time for their bodies to chill and acclimate. If after 5 or so days their stomach isn't much improved, reach out and we can get some probiotics sent to you.
If you've just read this and thought "My dog definitely isn't part of this list. My dog has explosive, yellow, horrendous smelling diarrhea and is definitely a cause for concern I should tell them about."
It's not different. It's the same diarrhea. Give it time.
If your dog was sick at animal control or starting to get sick, we will make a plan for a vet trip and meds. We usually know this ahead of time and we are prepared.
If your dog wasn't sick, give them time.
Just like humans, dogs need to acclimate to new environments and surroundings. In fact, dust mites, molds and pollens are the three major airborne allergens that pets are susceptible to.
Just like humans, dogs need to acclimate to new environments and surroundings. In fact, dust mites, molds and pollens are the three major airborne allergens that pets are susceptible to. While every pet can respond differently—and with varying levels of severity—to dust mites, most pets will demonstrate allergies to dust mites through their skin.
Before we run straight to the vet for allergy meds and or allergy shots, let's try Benadryl first.
Dosage:
A simple and practical dose is 1 mg of Benadryl® per pound of your dog's weight, given two to three times a day.
If Benadryl doesn't help, we can discuss a food switch, and then medications if needed. While we have no problem if our dogs need meds, we don't want to jump to a prescription item immediately.
Keep in mind that your itchy dog will be looking for adopters. Although people may be interested in your dog, having a prescription medication from the get-go can alarm some people. They will start to think about future costs and it can be a deterrent. If we can figure out the cause of the issues without going straight to prescription items, it's only going to help your foster. If nothing seems to be helping your dog, then we get a prescription from our vet.
We don’t have a “set” timeframe but after the 2 week shutdown is a nice reference point. This could be shorter or longer, depending on the dog. Some need medical help, some have to work on certain behaviors, and some are basic and can go up for adoption pretty quickly. See below for timeframes on foster to adopt decisions.
The foster should write the bio for their dog and take PICTURES!!!
We need good pictures! Taking pictures regularly makes all the difference when trying to get dogs noticed.
Then we list the dog and wait! We will continue to post updates on Facebook as long as you provide us with new pictures and new information, and/or funny/cute stories.
Truthfully, we don’t know. There are so many factors that play a part.
Time of year, age, breed, looks, temperament, their story, and online popularity. The best way to make sure you’re doing all you can do, is to keep taking pictures and providing us with great details about your dog.
The more info you give us, the more posts we can make online about them. Once dogs have a decent following, they usually have interest and get applications.
Standard timeframe for listing a dog for adoption is 2 weeks. This can be longer if we’re dealing with medical or behavioral issues.
When the dog has been medically and behaviorally “cleared” for adoption, fosters will have 1 week to decide if they’d like to move forward with adoption themselves. If within that week the foster has not chosen to adopt, we will list the dog for adoption.
If the adoption process starts moving forward and we have an approved app, the foster can no longer change their minds. It would be unfair to another family that is invested and is excited to bring their new family member home.
Please remember, fosters do get first dibs! But foster families cannot prevent a dog from becoming adoptable, and they cannot hold their dog in foster limbo, because they don’t want to commit. If the foster family truly can’t decide, then that’s probably the answer and the dog should be listed for adoption. We also need to keep dogs moving forward so we can move on to saving more.
We receive it and we screen it. We confirm the home ownership, vet check (if necessary), and home check (via video).
If the app appears solid, we pass the app to you to look at. If you like them, we setup a meet and greet. If you don’t, we move on.
It is completely dependent on the foster home, the dog, and what everyone is comfortable with.
If you want to foster and not be a part of meet and greets, please let us know and we will try to accommodate.
If you want to meet the family, see the home, and know where your foster is going, you have that option! We actually like this option best. Then you can feel good about where your foster goes and you can have whatever relationship you’d like with the new family.
Just as most other things, the meet and greet location can vary depending on the humans and dogs. Sometimes the potential adopters go to the foster’s home, sometimes the foster and dog go to the potential adopter’s home, and sometimes we meet in the middle. Whatever works best and is in the best interest of the dog.
Please reference the 'Space' and 'Two Week Shutdown' documents. These aren't suggestions.
SPACE:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1idiM4OtdA5AZJ9fkq4rE_gKUAcLzEX1k/view
TWO WEEK SHUTDOWN:
They are used to ensure we have the best possible setup for long term success. We go slow in the beginning, so we can have a successful ending. If this is rushed, it's too much, too soon, and the entire situation could be a failure. We want our dogs, our foster homes, and our adopters to be successful.
We do understand that people want to do some sort of dog intros beforehand and we'd always recommend parallel walks. Multiple people each walking a dog, and just walking and talking. Dogs don't need to be fast friends. Just walking in the same area and getting their brains calm is enough in the beginning.
We usually recommend everyone take a day to think about it and regroup, after the meet. But on occasion, we will allow same day adoptions, if everyone is prepared.
You let one of your contacts know everyone is moving forward with the adoption and we will initiate paperwork. The adopters will receive a text or email from our rescue platform (Shelterluv) prompting them to pay the adoption fee, and agree to the terms and conditions of the adoption. Once the payment is made, the paperwork and medical records will be sent to the adopter. All paperwork will be done electronically.
The adopters should make sure they have all supplies they need, prior to taking the dog. The details regarding where and when you'll do the hand off can be worked out between yourselves.
When we are listing a dog for adoption, it typically means that dog is ready to leave their foster home at any time. If the foster family and the potential adopters all agree to move forward with the adoption, it's a super simple process. The adoption can be initiated in seconds. The adopter will get notification via text or email (whichever they prefer) and the platform we use (Shelterluv) will tell them we've initiated the adoption and will guide them through their portion. The have an opportunity to get insurance for their dog but they can opt out as well. Everything is electronic.
All these items will be initiated and completed by DHD leadership. You just tell us the adoption is happening and we'll take care of the paperwork.
Again, we are flexible. You and the adopters can choose what is best for everyone's schedule, location, and what is best for the dog. We do the paperwork and make sure everything is done on our end, and you can work with the new family on a hand off situation that works for everyone.
*Due to the size of puppies and the rate they grow, we cannot provide these same items but we can provide food to transition.
Regardless of the brand of microchip your dog has implanted, it is registered with My24Pet.
Your new dog's microchip is registered to Dark Horse Dogs. Upon receipt of the adoption fee, signed paperwork, and any supplies (if you were a foster first), we will initiate a transfer of the microchip into your name and address, at no additional cost to you.
We will continue to still be a point of contact on the microchip, for the life of the animal.
Essentially, you start out fostering first. The rescue is your point of contact, the rescue owns the dog, and everything is done through the rescue for the time being. Sometimes people start out intending to foster only, and they fall in love and want to adopt. We call that a foster failure (in a good way). This was an unintended foster to adopt.
Sometimes people want another dog but aren't sure if that dog will fit into their home dynamic. Adopting directly from a shelter can be challenging because you don't know how they are in a home setting. This is when shelter volunteers and staff will usually recommend doing a foster to adopt with a rescue. It gives you and the dog the support you need while acclimating and transitioning into your new life, while also leaving options open. If for some reason the dog does not end up being a match for your home, that's okay! It happens! Now we have an opportunity to find the home that works for them. But we do still expect you to stay committed to fostering that dog until we can find their home. Just because they aren't a match for you, does not mean you get to ditch the dog. We all went into this agreement with the same understanding of providing the dog safety and security, until we could find their family.
Then there's the medical foster to adopt situation. Maybe you fell in love with a dog at animal control and planned to adopt but the dog ended up getting sick, or needed medical care. Please continue reading for more information on this scenario.
Dogs get sick at animal control. It's not ideal but in large shelter environments, illness spreads. For your dog to be legally adopted from animal control they have to be able to spay/neuter the animal. It's the law.
Veterinarians won't perform surgery on dogs that are ill. The only way to have that animal leave with you sooner, would be to do a foster to adopt with a rescue. Rescues can legally take the animal from animal control if they are not altered. People get referred to rescue in an effort to help open a kennel at animal control, help families get the dog they want, and then the animal can recuperate in a home environment.
How does the process work? Keep reading.
Step # 1 is to fill out a foster application! List the dog and their associated number at animal control and we will screen your app and find out about that dog.
No. Not at all.
No, you aren't going to get a waived adoption fee because animal control had waived adoption fees, during the time you wanted to adopt. Animal control is a funded facility, with paid staff.
A nonprofit rescue runs on donations and volunteers. We provide supplies for our dogs which includes food, a crate, flea and tick prevention, heartworm prevention, a leash, collar, toys, and a bunch of other items that are not free to us. You would not receive this at animal control. You'd be able to adopt a dog for "free", but you'd need to go buy all those supplies. They are not cheap.
And when your dog is healthy enough to be vetted, we schedule your dog for surgery and anything else it needs. We have to pay those vet bills. We aren't getting medical done by government funded staff. We are working with regular veterinary clinics. We are scheduling your appointments, we are checking in on you, we are providing help and support as you acclimate in the home with a new family member, and we are purchasing the supplies you're using.
We are volunteers who do not get paid to do this. If we are helping you bring home your family member, and then you want a free adoption after we've put out all these costs, how would we be able to help other families?
Our costs per dog almost almost always exceed the adoption fee. Sometimes, by thousands. Please do not complain about an adoption fee. We have our fees listed on this site for everyone to review before they choose to foster or adopt with us. Your dog wasn't going to be a waived adoption fee at that time anyway. Because your dog was sick, you were unable to adopt, and that's when someone recommended you contact us for help. Your dog was not adoptable then and therefore did NOT have a waived adoption fee. We are a nonprofit run by people who do this for free, in our "spare time." We have real jobs, dogs of our own, fosters of our own, kids, and and lives. We volunteer in rescue, because we love animals. We are not animal control.
Puppies 8 weeks to 1 year $450.00
Adults 1 year and up $350.00
There are additional details on our adoption fee page here:
Absolutely not. We are NOT animal control.
We are a foster based rescue that you contacted...for help. When we helped you, you did not adopt from animal control. The "return" of a dog in this case doesn't exist. If a dog gets adopted from one of our fosters and the adopter wants to return the dog, the point of "return" would hopefully be the original foster.
In a foster to adopt, you are the foster and you would be the point of "return." You didn't get that dog from animal control. There is nowhere to "return" that dog to now. You're now working with an organization that needs you to do your part in this agreement. Do we expect you to adopt if the dog isn't a match? No. That's the great part of a foster to adopt. You can see if you're a long term match, prior to being the legal owner. But we expect and anticipate that you will foster that dog, until it is adopted, or we find another foster solution.
We are not magic. We will do our best to move the dog you have, but you don't get to just drop the dog at a shelter, and you cannot expect that someone will run right over and pick up that dog. We need time to figure out real plans. These are living beings, not toys.
We are an organization who took our time to try and help you, and the expectation is that you will respect our time, and help us by keeping your foster safe and secure, until we have found a solid alternative. This is also on the foster application, and on the foster agreement. We will hold up our end, we just need you to work with us.
Adoption Fees & Details: https://darkhorsedogs.org/adoption-fees-1
Adoption Requirements: https://darkhorsedogs.org/adoption-requirements-1
If you submitted your application correctly, you will get an automated email confirmation. If you didn't get one, then we didn't get your app.
When we receive an application, we confirm it meets our requirements, while simultaneously screening to see if you're a match for the dog you applied for.
We will also ask for home video to use as the "home check."
If we like your application but we don't think it's a match for the dog you applied for, we will likely try to make recommendations that we think will fit your home and lifestyle.
Our main goal is long term success, not short term adoptions.
The foster will reach out to setup a meet and greet!
We have flexibility! We want the foster parents and the potential adopters to pick places and times that work best for them and the dog.
Sometimes people meet at the adopter's, sometimes they meet at the foster's, and sometimes they meet in the middle.
If the foster family and your family all agree to move forward with the adoption, it's a super simple process. The adoption can be initiated in seconds. DHD will initiate the adoption and you will get notification via text or email (whichever you prefer) and the platform we use (Shelterluv) will tell you we've initiated the adoption and will guide you through the steps. You will have an opportunity to purchase insurance for your dog but you can opt out.
All these items will be initiated and completed by DHD leadership. We just need to know the adoption is moving forward and we'll take care of the paperwork.
*Due to the size of puppies and the rate they grow, we cannot provide these same items but we can provide food to transition.
You will receive a rabies certificate in with the medical records we emailed you.
It is your responsibility to visit the website for your county, and you need to register your new dog. Your county will provide you a rabies tag.
Regardless of the brand of microchip your dog has implanted, it is registered with My24Pet.
Your new dog's microchip is registered to Dark Horse Dogs. Upon receipt of the adoption fee, signed paperwork, we will initiate a transfer of the microchip into your name and address, at no additional cost to you.
We will continue to still be a point of contact on the microchip, for the life of the animal.
Again, we are flexible. You and the adopters can choose what is best for everyone's schedule, location, and what is best for the dog.
Once the paperwork is all set, you can work with the foster family to setup something that works best.
No. There's no way we can ensure that. We wish we could.
Families that have existing dogs are strongly urged to do slow introductions. We personally, practice a full 2 week shutdown. A new dog comes in and it has its own space, away from the chaos of the home. The new dog is not introduced to our dogs immediately. This dog is kept separate to focus on decompression and creating trust and a bond with us (the humans). We are the main caregivers for this dog. We feed them, take them potty, and we leave them alone to relax and decompress.
They need space, consistency, decompression, and they need to learn who they can trust. It’s very difficult to trust a new person that is constantly pushing you past your comfort level. Most humans don’t even realize they’re doing it.
We do understand that not all families want to keep dogs separated. It’s not supposed to be forever. The separation is to allow everyone in the home to get used to the smells and sounds of new dogs, and to bring the energy and anxiety down. Before the meets happen.
Moving to a new place with complete strangers is scary and confusing enough. Trying to add all the extra factors too soon, increases the likelihood a dog may make a mistake. Humans and animals can, and do, make poor decisions when overwhelmed.
If two dogs seem like a good match, a strict shutdown isn’t always needed. We do a strict shutdown because it’s what works in our homes. But we would still recommend dogs have time to separate and chill out in the beginning.
Do you go on a first date, move in with that person the same day, and spend 24 hours a day together? No, you don’t. It’s too much, too soon.
SPACE: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1idiM4OtdA5AZJ9fkq4rE_gKUAcLzEX1k/view
TWO WEEK SHUTDOWN: https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/27187776-42ef-4c1f-8889-aa7c5aca514f/downloads/DHD%20TWO%20WEEK%20SHUTDOWN.pdf?ver=1690901900513
Returns, rehoming & help: https://darkhorsedogs.org/rehoming-%26-more
First step is to find their favorite reinforcer. If they find something rewarding, use it in training!
Reward based training methods work the best for dogs. After all, would you go to your job if you weren’t getting paid?
When we are teaching our dogs a task, we praise them as soon as they complete a behavior.
Whether it’s the use of a clicker or a verbal praise like “good boy, yes, super!” Following the praise is generally a reward, which is usually a treat.
Some trainers may teach intermittent reinforcement. This is when you only give your dog treats some of the time for the behaviors that they complete. For some dogs, this is okay because they enjoy working for the heck of it. With primitive dogs, I find that training on a 1:1 basis of behavior to reward, or giving your dog praise AND a reward every time they complete a behavior works best.
Food: Treats tend to be the easiest to use on the move. It is very rare that a dog is truly not food motivated. Evaluate the type of treat you are using. If the same old regular dog treats that you always buy haven’t motivated your dog in the past, don’t expect them to start being interesting now. Try novel, high value treats! Use boiled chicken/turkey breast, shredded cheese, freeze dried treats (meat, liver, and fish), lean cooked ground meat, plain yogurt, and meaty leftovers that aren’t super seasoned.
Toys: Some dogs love toys! They are pretty easy to use as a reinforcer as you can ask for a behavior and when they complete it, you can praise and reward with a little play. This is also a great way to burn some of their energy as well. Three types of toys come to mind when talking about toys as reinforcers.
Movement: There are dogs that love to chase! Whether it’s chasing you, a treat, or a toy, chase games are a great way to add extra value to your cues. Ask for a behavior, and as soon as they complete it, praise and run a few steps with them. If your dog gets excited about this, then that is likely a great reinforcer to throw in. For those dogs who love treats and movement, you can toss the treat or toy a few feet away so that they go after it. They tend to love this because it follows their natural patterns of chasing and for some, catching.
The Environment: This is a huge one for dogs and one of the most underrated forms of reinforcement. When we are training, one of the biggest distractions is the environment and all that lives in it. Squirrels, birds, smells can be challenging to overcome. If you use these as reinforcers for your dog, you will be able to harness the distraction and create focus around their favorite part of their walk!
Some may use rabbits as reinforcers, and no, they don’t let dogs catch them. When the dog notices the rabbit, call their name. When they look back at you, praise and reward them by giving some slack in the leash so they can run a couple steps towards the rabbit. The rabbit tends to hop a couple steps further when they do this. The rabbit’s movement is very interesting to some dogs. Then, give a cue to move on and then run away from the rabbit. This is a use of a different reinforcement method, the movement reinforcer discussed in the previous section.
You can also just use sniffing in the environment as a reward. This is a great choice for dogs who seem like all they can focus on is checking out smells. Dogs have incredibly powerful noses that can smell where other animals and novel scents have crossed. They are able to get a lot of information about that creature just from smelling. Think of the act of scenting as your dog checking into their social media.
If your dog is pulling you toward a smell, stop, and wait for them to look at you. As soon as they acknowledge you, praise them and allow them to go sniff. Once you have practiced this for a while, you will start to see your dog checking in with you before they go to smell rather than drag you. Deciding which reinforcer to use is dependent on your specific dog.
Not all dogs will find every one of these suggestions reinforcing.
Decompression, jumpy/mouthy dogs, leash walking, enrichment, body language, resource guarding, kids and dogs, respecting space, leash/dog reactivity, potty training, relaxation protocol & so much more can be found here:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1--MiFYyX6yFt0pjfYZiBgsldiGXNx7Ia
Here is a great link to help with the crate training process.
https://www.humanesociety.org/resources/crate-training-101
Association of Professional Dog Trainers Position Statement:
The following statement reflects the opinion of the Association of Professional Dog Trainers.
The Association of Professional Dog Trainers recommends the use of crates for puppies and dogs as a short-term training tool and as safety equipment throughout the dog's life. Crates are a valuable tool for house training, as well as for managing the environment so dogs avoid developing problem behaviors such as destructive chewing and counter-surfing. Crates also provide safe restraint in the car, and make it easier to travel with your dog by providing short-term confinement options in a hotel or anywhere else you might visit.
Crate training also helps minimize stress during times of emergency, while boarding in a kennel or while spending a night at the vet clinic. When introduced properly, a crate becomes a safe place that many dogs seek out when they need a break from a hectic home environment. Introduce dogs to the crate gradually and make sure that it's a pleasant experience. It is important to choose a crate of appropriate size and adjust confinement times as the dog matures in order to build long term success. Avoid using the crate as punishment, and avoid crating a dog who is experiencing anxiety, whether that anxiety stems from the confinement itself, separation from a loved one, or from environmental factors like a thunderstorm or other dogs.
The APDT does not recommend the use of crates as a confinement tool for extended periods – this is a tool best used in conjunction with a comprehensive training and socialization program guided by a professional dog trainer. To find a trainer in your area visit the APDT trainer search page. For detailed tips on choosing a crate, introducing your dog to it, and appropriate crating schedules, see this article on our website at https://apdt.com/resource-center/crate-training/
Instead of punishing behavior we don't want to see, let's tell our dogs what we do want to see!
https://www.humanesociety.org/resources/positive-reinforcement-training
Barking problems are among the most common complaints that dog owners have. Why do dogs bark?
Well, for a variety of reasons. Dogs will bark if they feel threatened. They may bark when they play and get excited. Some dogs will bark for attention. Some will bark if they are in pain and they’ll even bark when they’re lonely, bored or stressed.
Certain breeds or breed types are also genetically inclined to bark more than others. How you’ll prevent or resolve your issue with barking will partially depend on what is triggering your dog to bark.
For example if your dog is barking or vocalizing because he’s in pain, treating the source of his pain would be the obvious solution. If your dog is barking through the front window as dogs pass by your house, blocking off his access to that window is a simple way to help prevent his barking.
Keep in mind that the more your dog practices barking the better he’ll get at it. So identifying what is triggering your dog to bark and if all possible, removing the trigger or trying to stop the barking before it occurs is the simplest way to prevent the barking. Anti-bark collars which use shock are inhumane and are inappropriate for most kinds of barking problems (and often make the problem worse!). With the right kind of help and a strong desire to stop the problem, most pet parents can successfully resolve barking issues in a safe and humane way.
The Alert Barker: If your dog is barking to alert you to someone or something outside, the answer is quite simple. Remove the source of what triggers his barking. For instance if your dog barks at people as they walk past your home, prevent his access to the window using furniture, closing blinds, blocking off the area with a baby gate or confining him to a room or his crate while you aren’t at home.
The Lonely Barker: Fortunately the remedy for the lonely barker is often simple. Try changing your dog’s environment a bit. Remember that your dog probably wants to be with people. Dogs who are left outside for long periods of time are often the worst offenders of barking. Your dog needs to play with you and feel like he is a part of the family. Dogs typically don’t do well when left alone for long periods of time. Make sure you set aside time for regular walks, playtime – even some training sessions. You’ll want to be sure that you give him the social contact that he needs to keep his body and mind occupied. Barking when left alone may also indicate separation anxiety. If you think that anxiety is the source of your dog’s barking, contact a professional dog trainer in your area who specializes in working with anxiety. You may also want to work with your veterinarian to see if medication is necessary to help improve your dog’s behavior.
Attention Barking: Attention seeking barking is a learned behavior! When your dog brings a toy over to you, drops it on the floor, barks and you pick it up and throw it. You have just taught your dog, “When I bark you play!” Even if you look at him or verbally scold your dog when he barks, you will still be teaching him that his barking is a successful way to get your attention. How can you remedy it? You need to ignore his demands. His barking may initially increase and so don’t give in or he will learn that persistence pays off. However, if he barks and you really ignore him or even better if you ignore him and walk away until he is quiet, he will eventually learn that barking doesn’t work and it will decrease.
Dogs chew for a variety of reasons. The main ones are teething, boredom, and separation anxiety. Puppies between four to six months of age chew because they are teething and chewing helps to ease their gum discomfort. You must provide your puppy with appropriate items to chew, and confine him to areas where there are no tempting objects such as sneakers, socks, children’s toys, or any other household objects.
Using a crate or baby gates are good ways to keep your puppy contained and keep the puppy safe from harmful items to chew, as well as protect your home from an eager puppy’s teeth! It is unfair to expect your puppy to know what he cannot chew if you allow him free run of your house and access to all of your personal items. If you use a crate make sure that you give your puppy some safe, durable chew toys to chew on while he is in his crate.
Excellent examples of chew toys for your puppy are Nylabones, sterilized bones, durable, hollow rubber toys like Kongs stuffed with a little bit of peanut butter, biscuits, yogurt, or other food items that are good for your puppy. If you have a puppy that is an aggressive chewer, avoid items such as rawhide or cow hooves. Dogs with powerful jaws can break up large bits of these items and swallow them, causing stomach obstructions and possible surgery to remove them.
Puppies experience pain in their gums as they lose their baby teeth and their adult teeth come in. You can give them ice cubes to chew on, which will help numb the painful feeling in their gums and jaw. You can also make “chicksicles” by putting some chicken broth in your ice cube tray.
Teach your puppy what toys are appropriate for him to chew on. When the puppy attempts to chew on something unacceptable, remove the object from the puppy’s mouth, and then give the puppy an acceptable toy to chew on. Praise the puppy when he starts to chew on the acceptable toy. You can use the same technique with an adult dog that you have just adopted. You can also teach your dog a “leave it” command to let go of objects, and it can be particularly useful when you walk your dog outside, as many dogs will tend to pick up less than desirable objects on the street like cigarette butts and trash.
Adult dogs who are bored will chew to give themselves something to do during the day when you are not at home, or in the evenings when you are home and not interacting with the dog.
Exercising your dog regularly can assist with ending destructive chewing, as a tired dog is a happy dog. Giving your dog an outlet to expend his pent-up energy is an excellent way to eliminate destructive behaviors, as a well-exercised dog will most likely want to relax and sleep in your home instead of finding things to chew on to work out his frustrations.
There are some excellent toys as well to provide your dog with mental stimulation when you are not home. Invest in some durable “dog puzzles”, such as the Buster Cube and the Kong. A Buster Cube is a hollow cube that you can ll with kibble or other treats, and the dog must gure out how to roll the cube around to get the treats. You can even feed your dog his or her breakfast in this way, as it will take the dog quite some time to get all the kibble out and help him to expend energy in a positive, fun way. Kongs are another toy that you can stuff with food and provide to your dog while you are either not at home, or preoccupied with household tasks. An expertly packed Kong full of food can be a challenging task for your dog and provide exercise for the dog’s gums and jaws as well.
1. What do Rewards Have to do with it?
It’s poetic to think that dogs live to please their masters, but the reality is that dogs live to please themselves. When we ask our dogs to do something, the first thought racing through their heads is, “What’s in it for me right now?” Behaviors that are rewarded are statistically more likely to be repeated, so when we regularly reward our dogs for a job well done, they’ll want to keep showing up for work! Not all rewards are created equal, and understanding what your dog finds rewarding is an important step in the training process.
2. Using Food in Training.
Food can be a very valuable reinforcer (paycheck!) for dogs during training. It’s one of a very short list of things that dogs are born already knowing is good. While most dogs easily learn to enjoy praise, petting and play – all of which also make good rewards — food still holds a special place in their mind due to its primal nature. Some people express concern about using food in training, worried they will create a dog who will only work if he knows there’s food. This is a valid concern, as it can happen if food is mis-used. The trick is to make sure that food is being used as a reward and not a bribe. There’s a big difference!
3. Reward vs. Bribe.
If you ask the dog to do something, he does it, and you give him a treat, that treat is a reward. If you ask the dog to do something he knows how to do, a behavior that he has demonstrated repeatedly on request for a long period of time, and he doesn’t do it, maybe you ask again. If he STILL doesn’t do it, and when you then reach into your pocket and get a treat, and all of the sudden the dog springs into action to comply with your original request, THAT treat just became a bribe! You asked him to do it, he didn’t, you got food, and he decided to get to work. Good training strives to avoid this.
4. Preventing Bribery.
The trick is to get the visual presence of the food out of the learning picture as soon as possible. For example, when lure-training (think cookie on the dog’s nose and over his head to achieve a sit), you want to get the cookie off his nose just as soon as you see him grasp the physical mechanics of the behavior. At that point, start using the same gesture minus the cookie, and reward the dog with a treat from your pocket once his rear is on the floor. This helps teach the dog the important lesson that he must successfully do the work before you’re willing to dole out the reward.
Another important tip for preventing accidental bribery is to make sure you have your dog’s attention before asking him to do something. Often, people resort to bribery because the dog didn’t respond the first time they asked – but when they asked, the dog wasn’t even paying attention. Try to avoid talking to your dog’s tail end! Before asking your dog to sit, lie down, or come when you call him, do your best to make sure he’s looking at you. Teach him to respond quickly to his name, so that when he’s distracted, using his name will prompt him to check in, at which point you can ask for the next behavior. You want him to respond to his name with the same enthusiasm that he responds to the words “Do you want a treat?”
5. Using Life Rewards in Addition to Food Treats.
Once your dog is reliably responding to your hand-signals, begin to vary how he gets his rewards. Sometimes use a treat, but often times, use something else he’s telling you he wants – like his leash put on to go for a walk, his favorite toy to be thrown, or an invitation to join you on the couch for snuggle time. By using these types of “life rewards,” you’re teaching your dog that keeping you happy by complying with your requests is the key to opening the door to everything good in his world – not just food treats! This also allows you to use food randomly – as a surprise – which is extremely exciting for dogs, and often motivates them to work even harder.
Tricks of the Trade Treat Tips:
Dominance Theory Common Behavior Myths
Myth: Your dog barks at you to tell you he’s in charge.
Fact: There are numerous underlying factors that can lead to excessive barking such as boredom, fear, and anxiety. Owners often inadvertently reinforce barking by giving the dog attention when they are barking, or yelling at the dog, which only strengthens the behavior over time.
How to change the behavior: Train the dog to bark and be quiet on cue. Proper daily exercise, interaction with a dog’s human family, and interactive toys such as Kongs® can decrease barking if the dog is barking out of boredom. For fearful and/or anxious dogs, determine what is causing the dog’s fears and work to desensitize him to them.
Myth: Dogs jump up on people to assert their height and rank over you.
Fact: Dogs jump up because they have been inadvertently reinforced to do so by inconsistent dog owners. Dogs jump up because they want to get closer to our faces to say hello. Dogs jump up because … it’s fun!
How to change the behavior: Teach the dog to sit when visitors enter the house and reward for this behavior. Teach the dog that he only gets attention, treats, etc. when he has all four paws on the floor. Make sure everyone who interacts with your dog is on the same page about turning their back on the dog when he jumps up so the behavior is not reinforced in the future.
Myth: Dogs pull on leash so they can get out in front of you and be in charge of you and the walk.
Fact: If every time the dog gets to go on a walk, they pull you along without being taught any different, they reasonably understand that this is how walks are supposed to be! Getting to go on a walk is a fun-filled and exciting activity for a dog. They pull because they’re enthusiastic and want to get out and enjoy the sights and smells of the outdoors.
How to change the behavior: Take the time to teach them what it is that you do want. Reinforce the dog heavily for staying next to you, and do not allow the dog to move forward if he is pulling. If your dog is too strong for you, use a management device such as a front clip harness, and use this in conjunction with teaching the dog not to pull.
American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) Position Statement on the Use of Dominance Theory in Behavior Modification of Animals.
https://avsab.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Dominance_Position_Statement_download-10-3-14.pdf
Step 1: Look for our certifications
The designations are: CPDT-KA®, CPDT-KSA®, CBCC-KA®.
CPDT-KA® indicates that a dog trainer has passed a comprehensive exam and has at least 300 hours of dog training experience.
CPDT-KSA® indicates that a dog trainer has passed a comprehensive exam and an objective skills-based assessment along with at least 300 hours of dog training experience.
CBCC-KA® indicates that a dog behavior consultant has passed a comprehensive exam on behavior modification and has at least 300 hours of of dog behavior consulting experience.
Step 2: Assess the trainer
Browse the trainer’s website and any other marketing materials. Does everything look and sound professional? Do the messages appeal to you? If so, set up a phone call or in-person meeting. Can the trainer answer your questions about training, behavior, and methods knowledgeably and clearly? Are they patient and thorough in their replies? Do you feel comfortable with them? Do they have experience working with the problems you need help with? Can they provide references from clients?
Step 3: Beware of red flags
A couple of things should raise a red flag in your assessment. If the trainer focuses on a model of dominance and submission—using language like “dominant” and “alpha” —or uses primarily punishment based methods, that trainer doesn’t meet the standards of science-based training.
Find a trainer in your area:
https://www.ccpdt.org/dog-owners/certified-dog-trainer-directory/
Less is more.
Slow intros are key. And by slow, we mean not doing anything at all. The cat should have access to a “safe space” that the dog can’t get to. This space should allow the cat to come and go as it pleases, and the cat/dog can acclimate in the real life situation. Without any pressure of anything at all. Having a safe and secure place for your cat(s) is crucial. You are responsible for your animal’s safety. Take it seriously.
The staged “cat tests” people often want to do, are not indicative of how the dog will react or behave long term. It’s best to not force interaction just so you can see a reaction. Bringing attention to the cat, to force a reaction, will ensure you’ve just made the cat more exciting to the dog. Disinterest is the goal. We want the cat not to be exciting at all.
In the first few days, don’t force any interaction. Allow them to smell and do their own things. Your new dog can be crated at times so the cat(s) can come and go, and a leash should be kept on the dog indoors, so the dog can be restrained quickly and easily, if needed. We don’t want either of them to be excited by each other so things should be kept calm and cool at home. Treats are a great association. If the dog has good behavior or doesn’t care about the cat, treating the good behavior will prompt more good behavior.
Over a few days, rotate which animal has freedom and which is confined. This will allow each animal plenty of time to investigate the other one’s scent, in a safe environment without chasing or chaos.
When no one is home, the dog or cat must always be securely confined so unsupervised interactions are not possible. Do not deviate from this. It is basic safety for your home and the animals in it.
Tall gates the dog can’t jump are great too. There are also safety items that can be purchased.
We never actually know how animals will behave when put in completely different situations, with new people, new places, new scents, new routines, and new animals. Even dogs that are known to be cat friendly, could dislike a particular cat. Or vice versa. Just as people don’t always get along with all people, animals are the same. We cannot expect more from animals, than we do of ourselves. They’re animals. Read that again. They’re animals.
It is up to us, the humans, to follow safety rules and protocols for the best chance at success. If you follow these rules does it mean your new dog will definitely be a match for your cat? No. Not every dog is right for every home. But let’s not find out that your dog and cat aren’t a match…because something devastating happened. Keeping everyone safe, while finding out if they’re compatible or not, is the goal. Don’t find out they aren’t compatible because someone got injured or worse. There are products to help as well, see below.
Door Buddy:
Gate with Cat Door:
To rescue locally, responsibly, and realistically.
Dark Horse Dogs, NFP was originally named Animal Heartline Humane Association (AHL). AHL was chartered in 1979 and remained a licensed rescue and registered 501(c)(3) for far longer than people realize. In 2022 Animal Heartline took on a DBA of Dark Horse Dogs, NFP and in 2024 the entity name was changed entirely. We are now just:
Dark Horse Dogs, NFP
Yep! Our Employee Identification Number (EIN) is 36-3019798 and we are in good standing with the state of Illinois.
You can also find us on GuideStar:
The Illinois Secretary of State:
Corporation/LLC Search/Certificate of Good Standing (ilsos.gov)
File # 51719344
Incorporation Date: Thursday, 12 April 1979
Entity Type: CORPORATION
Entity Name: DARK HORSE DOGS, NFP
In the state of Illinois (where we are) you must have an Illinois Department of Agriculture license to operate and run a rescue. You also must be a 501(c)(3).
Our ILDOA License # is: 087-5545
This rescue license allows us to work with our local animal controls and take animals directly from them, that would otherwise be unadoptable to the general public, due to a multitude of reasons which could range from health to behavior.
Want to learn more about the laws and requirements in Illinois? Visit the links below.
Animal Health & Welfare - Animal Health and Welfare (illinois.gov)
510 ILCS 5/ Animal Control Act. (ilga.gov)
510 ILCS 70/ Humane Care for Animals Act. (ilga.gov)
Need to file an animal welfare complaint? Fill out the form at the link below:
Animal Health and Welfare Complaint Form.pdf (illinois.gov)
Then email it to: agr.bahw.dockets@illinois.gov
Animal Control. Our dogs come from the dreaded “high kill” shelters. In reality, these “high kill" shelters are actually called “open access” shelters. These shelters don't have the “luxury” of turning animals away.
When kennel space is full, and a new dog comes in as a stray, the new dog has to go somewhere. That’s when shelters are forced to euthanize for space. And the public is often outraged. Animals are euthanized every day, all over the world. We can scream that every shelter should be “no kill” but screaming does nothing.
Foster, adopt, volunteer & donate. These are actionable ways we can truly make a difference. A shelter certainly can’t hit “no kill” status, if people aren’t helping to save the animals.
WE SUPPORT OUR HIGH KILL SHELTERS!!! YOU SHOULD TOO!
No. Absolutely not. We will not now, nor ever, refer to ourselves as "no kill".
Those two words strung together have caused far more damage and deaths than people realize.
"NO KILL" does NOT mean, what people believe it to mean.
Most will have read that far and moved on, because we just openly admitted our level of hatred for those words. And we're supposed to rescue animals. How dare we call ourselves rescuers and never strive to call Dark Horse Dogs, no kill!
Write our rescue off now. Easy enough. Or...ask yourself why rescuers would publicly write these words... knowing damn well the audience won't take kindly to reading it.
No kill is a dangerous and irresponsible mindset. We strive to rescue responsibly.
No. At this point in rescue, the Chicagoland area doesn't need more dogs.
Our shelters are filled with them. We understand that some rescues like to bring in different breeds, but that's not where our rescue interests lie.
Although we are an all breed rescue, the bully breeds will always be our main focus. They're our first loves. And because the Chicagoland area is inundated with what we love, we have no need to go elsewhere.
Dark Horse Dogs, NFP
La Grange Highlands, Illinois, United States
Copyright © 2024 Dark Horse Dogs, NFP - All Rights Reserved.